From wrinkles to hormonal breakouts, skin changes are common in menopause. These can affect those with darker skin differently. Get the lowdown on melanin in menopause from Dr. Yvonne Abimbola of Dr Eve Skin, experts in dermatological issues for skin of color.
Menopause for people of color
Menopause is when you haven’t had a period for 12 months and are not using hormonal contraception. It is caused by a rapid decline in estrogen production in your ovaries as they shut down their activity. Generally, this happens as you approach your fifties, but this might not be the case for everyone.
Read more about early menopause.
Menopause can hit differently for people of color. Experiences of menopause in the media and literature have been historically from the point of view of Caucasian women. While many experiences may be similar, symptoms in people of color are, on average more frequent and severe. Black, Asian, and Latina women also start menopause a year or two earlier than white women, on average. Historic views on the perception of pain in people of color have implicitly biased the opinions of clinicians dealing with them. Implicit bias happens unintentionally and automatically, but it can affect decisions and have a negative effect on actual care. It can lead to delays in diagnosis and ineffective management. For example, fewer Black patients take HT when compared to the white population.
What happens when ‘your black cracks’?
There are long-held views that black skin doesn’t age, which can make people of color ashamed to seek help for skin concerns as they feel it shouldn’t happen to them. Also, there are taboos in Black and Asian communities about seeking treatment for seemingly trivial concerns. This leaves many using more traditional methods, or searching for answers for much longer than their Caucasian peers.
The science of skin
Your skin is made up of three layers – the epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis – and is your largest organ.
The epidermis is the outermost layer and the first line of defense in protecting your body.
This layer contains ceramides, which are the glue to your skin cells and are formed out of fatty tissue known as lipids. Ceramides are important for keeping your skin strong and healthy. They help prevent water loss and protect against harmful organisms, keeping your skin hydrated and functioning properly.
Ceramide production reduces as your skin undergoes changes during menopause. This can compromise your skin barrier, making your skin much drier and less able to retain water. Dry skin is often reported to be dull, itchy, and intolerant of skincare products, including ones you have used for years without a problem.
Lower levels of ceramides are known to be linked to:
- Acne
- Eczema
- Psoriasis
- Rosacea
- Dry skin
The roles of collagen and elastin
Collagen and elastin are the proteins that give structure to your skin, including firmness, elasticity, glow, and tensile strength.
Collagen is found in the dermal layer of your skin and the connective tissues of your skin, muscles, bones, and joints. Collagen levels gradually decline as you age and dramatically deplete during menopause as estrogen production falls. This process is unique to women – men have naturally lower levels of estrogen in comparison and a more gradual decline in collagen.
You may notice:
- Wrinkles and loose skin. Dry skin can make your skin look less taut
- Your appearance changing over time. This is because facial muscles can shrink and bones thin
- Your eyes become more hollow and deep-set
How can people of color improve their skin in menopause?
Is your trusty moisturizer no longer cutting it? A multi-pronged approach is most effective if you want to slow down or improve signs of aging.
Stella’s clinical advisor Dr. Lucy Wilkinson adds: “Changes to your skin are common during menopause due to hormonal changes – they’re a natural part of aging. Lifestyle changes can play a big part in improving skin elasticity and texture, as can a good skincare routine. Treatments involving injectables are also an option for those who wish to consider them.”
Let’s take a look at some of these methods in more detail…
Lifestyle changes
Adequate sleep, regular exercise, and a balanced, nutritious diet give the biggest boost to your overall health and your skin’s appearance. Building up the macro and micronutrients your body needs to repair itself helps manage the changes during menopause.
Drinking less alcohol and caffeine can help reduce any extra skin sensitivity, such as flushing and irritation, and avoid dehydration.
Exercising can help maintain a healthy weight, as well as strengthen muscles and help support your skin.
Read more about the best exercise for menopause.
Hormone therapy (HT)
HT is not routinely prescribed for cosmetic purposes. However, if you need HT for other symptoms – it can help poor sleep, hot flashes, and mood symptoms among others – you may well notice a welcome improvement in your skin quality.
Boosting your estrogen levels can improve your skin’s elasticity and firmness. It can delay the impact of aging on your skin by modulating the production of the skin remodeling process in the deeper layers of the skin. It can also stimulate the sebaceous glands in your skin, helping to keep skin thicker and more moist.
There can be side effects with HT when it comes to your skin. Those who take testosterone as part of their HT to help with libido, may notice an increase or resurgence of acne.
Skincare ingredients
Self-care through skincare is an active way to take control of menopause skin changes. Here’s a guide to help you shop for products with ingredients that can help firm up your skin and bring back the glow:
- Retinoids increase cell turnover and renew skin so that it looks less dull and refreshed
- Hyaluronic acid serums help skin retain water
- Lipid-rich moisturizers can hydrate your skin by replacing lost ceramides
- Carefully selected chemical peels can be used to exfoliate your skin, helping combat dullness
Injectables
Injectable treatments can limit muscle action and reduce the appearance of wrinkles effectively.
- Hyaluronic acid fillers can be used to create structure and help with volume loss caused by aging. Hyaluronic acid naturally occurs in your body and attracts water to itself when injected. Different densities can be applied to mimic tissue in your body and the effects are immediate.
- Hyaluronic acid “skin boosters” are injectable moisturizers that hydrate your skin from within and are completely absorbed by your body within a few weeks.
- Polynucleotides work at a cellular level to promote healing, repair, and renewal by producing collagen and elastin. It doesn’t replace volume. A series of treatments are required for the most benefit, as it is rapidly absorbed by your body within hours.
Final word
There are plenty of ways to improve your skin that are not invasive. Start with these. If you want to explore regenerative and aesthetic treatments, always consult a medical professional trained in aesthetics. Check their qualifications to make sure they can provide safe care for you.
Find out more about menopause on our blog or in our symptoms library.
Coming soon…
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